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The Beauty of Iraq

Posted by Tiglath (Guest) davidchibo@hotmail.com - Wednesday, December 24 2003, 11:43:19 (EST) from 203.89.203.20 - 203.89.203.20 - Windows XP - Internet Explorer Website: http://electroniciraq.net/news/1281.shtml Website title: Iraq Diaries: The Beauty of Iraq

The Beauty of Iraq Dahr Jamail, Electronic Iraq, 22 December 2003 Two female American soldiers next to a US army Hummer on the streets of Baghdad. There has been so much despair and so many terrible things to write about. Tonight, I will write about the beauty of the people here, and the culture that I have experienced. About how when I went to Ramadi to visit a family who had had several family members killed by American soldiers, to gather information and interview people, they insisted each time I stay for lunch. Even with the women in the family mourning inside one of the nearby homes, it was insisted that the small group of us stay and share a meal with them. Or when on one of the visits there the policeman who led us to the family, who is a friend of the family, insisted on making us stop at a roadside food stall to buy us soda and sweets before we dropped him off. Of course he wouldn't let us pay. "You are my guests, you are in my country. You never pay as a guest here." During a visit to Samarra a couple of journalists and myself interviewed Sheikh Abbas after a terrible battle had taken place within his city, killing many people, including one of his relatives. Yet after the interview he insisted we stay and share lunch with him. He wanted us to spend the night. When we told him we had to leave in order to finish our work, he said that his home was always our home, his door was always open for us, anytime. He asked us to come back and spend the night in his home. "Please do not forget that you are always welcome in my home," he said as we walked to the car. At a school that had been raided by US soldiers and students detained, Ahmed, an English teacher, made me take his phone number so that I could call him and he and his family could have me over for dinner. He asked me to please, please, please come to visit with him and his family. The hospitality is endless, and pours like a large waterfall from everyone here I've gotten to know even just a little bit. Every greeting is beautiful, with the traditional Salaam wa'aleikhum, followed usually by holding the right hand over the heart. Iraq means, 'firmly rooted country', and it truly is -- in traditions, pride of the land, the warm civility in the highest possible fashion of the Arabic culture. All of the tan buildings resembling the hue of the desert. Mesopotamia truly is the cradle of civilization. Politeness and manners aren't something one does here, they are part of the culture. The poorest people here will lay out the nicest spread of meal for you, and never let you leave their home until completely full of food. The old Arab saying, "Cairo writes, Beirut publishes, Baghdad reads" is so true. From the huge Friday book market each week, to the fact that Iraq has the highest number of PhD holders per capita in the world says it all. That this country has survived through the terrible war against Iran, the Gulf War, the horrible sanctions, the Anglo-American Invasion, and three decades of a terrible dictator, yet the people remain so strong, so proud, and so welcoming to those here is almost beyond comprehension. It brings tears to my eyes just to contemplate this amazing display of humanity despite the tragedies inflicted upon them. As prelude to this, please allow me to point out the photo above. Mind the reflection in the window of the Humvee. I didn't realize it was there until after I'd taken the photo. The truth has a way of coming out, one way or another. I traveled around much of Baghdad today talking with people, working with Hassan, an interpreter. We discussed some heavy topics while doing some work, but were both committed to trying to keep it on the lighter side, as so much has been going on. Nevertheless, the conversation turned to the topic of how the CPA is attempting to take any religious reference out of the state of Iraq-how any references to the Koran in textbooks are being deleted, and even a rumor of taking the words 'God is the Greatest' out of the Iraqi flag. To this Hassan says, "They already took my country, I don't want them to take my flag too!" We here some news that saboteurs have blown up several oil pipelines, both north and south of Baghdad, burning off over a million gallons of oil. In Baghdad this morning, an oil storage warehouse is set ablaze by saboteurs and several hundred thousand gallons of oil are burned off. While walking down the street two Bradley's pass us, soldiers atop with their guns pointing out to the sidewalks, as usual, scared. A few minutes after these pass with their wake of taxis behind them, a Humvee followed by a large empty truck with a large caliber machine gun mounted atop it with a soldier manning it passes. Hanging on the sides of the metal caging around the back of the flat-bed are signs written in Arabic. Hassan says it says that this truck is for prisoners, thieves and looters. It is followed by another Humvee with soldiers and their guns pointed out at the pedestrians. Shortly thereafter while having some juice we watched a little boy, no more than 9 years old, throwing some stones at a dog down the street. Hassan comments, "See! He is training. When he is 15 he will throw rocks at the Americans." We both laugh at the humor, yet at the probable truth behind it as well, which isn't so funny. Then the little boy starts to run off, and Hassan says, "See how fast he runs, he'll be good at it!" Hassan tells me how he and some friends have made a new version of the Pink Floyd song 'We Don't Need No Education', but for the occupation. So, humor me here -- take a moment, if you know this song, and get the melody in your head. "We don't need no, occupation. We don't need no, CPA. Paul Bremer, escape from Baghdad. Hey! Bush! Leave Iraq alone!" Twisted humor, of course. But we'll take all we can get over here. The joking was shortlived when we stopped by the home of Hassan's parents so he could drop something off for them. As we walk in there is, of course, no electricity. Hassan mutters almost under his breath, "Hmm. No electricity. Thanks Bush." After speaking with his father he learns one of his cousins was picked up last night by the Americans for no reason, and is very upset. "Why do they do these things? And there isn't a fucking thing any of us can do about it either. Nothing!" Later we arrive back at my hotel, and the mood is lighter after some dinner. Walking back along the dark, cold streets I whine a little about the cold night. "You are cold? See, I told you that you are Iraqi!" He has been giving me a hard time, saying he thinks I should live here, since the Middle East is where half of my family comes from anyhow. A little later we talk with a man peddling shampoo and candy bars on the street and after we introduce ourselves, he says, "You have Arab blood! I can tell." We all laugh together, Hassan and I knowing the main reason he said this is because my name is Dahr. And that is the day. Most of which we went out of our way to lighten the mood, and only discuss the heaviness of the occupation when necessary. But even at that, it infiltrates every corner of your daily life here, whether you like it or not. And there is nothing you can do about it. Dahr Jamail is a freelance journalist and political activist from Anchorage, Alaska. He has come to Iraq to bear witness and write about how the US occupation is affecting the people of Iraq, since the media in the US has in large part, he believes, failed to do so. --------------------- - BACK TO INDEX - REPLY - QUOTE - EDIT - DELETE -

The full topic: The Beauty of Iraq Tiglath - Wednesday, December 24 2003, 11:43:19 (EST) Re: The Beauty of Iraq Farid - 12/24 11:49

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